Australia’s influence is subtly but powerfully shaping the cultural landscape of Paris. While Australian athletes prepare for their momentous appearances in the Paris 2024 Olympics, an even more enduring impact is being made by the numerous Australians who call Paris home.
Fox McInerney, the visionary behind the coffee shop Good News and the roastery Cayo, highlights a significant shift in Parisian coffee culture over the past decade. “Australian café culture has firmly established itself here,” McInerney observes, noting that more than ten Australian-run establishments now dot central Paris, offering an alternative to the longstanding dominance of Cafés Richard.
McInerney criticizes the local café monopoly, stating, “Cafés Richard has a stranglehold on many bistros and traditional venues. The coffee they serve is subpar—burnt and over-extracted. Yet, this is what many locals believe constitutes good coffee. However, perceptions are evolving.”
Originally from Melbourne, McInerney transitioned from a career in bike touring and graphic design to coffee after a partner urged him to address his dissatisfaction with local brews. His venture, now spanning six years, includes a roasting business and contributes to a growing network of Australian-style cafes in Paris, such as Coutume, The Hardware Société, Lomi, and O Coffee.
Despite the growing popularity, convincing Parisians to embrace this new coffee style hasn’t been without challenges. McInerney notes that Australian espresso, which often costs twice as much and serves half the volume of a local cup, can be met with resistance, particularly from older patrons. “Adapting to different expectations is part of the process,” he says.
James McEwan-Hall, Director of Development at Café Oz, adds that the café’s approach contrasts with the traditional table service typical of French establishments. “Our model, which offers a more straightforward service, has inspired other bars and cafes,” he explains.
In the realm of high-end dining, Australians have also left their mark. Hanz Gueco, head chef at the French-Chinese fusion restaurant Le Cheval D’Or, and the team of James Henry and Shaun Kelly, with their restaurant Le Doyenné located in a picturesque estate 41 kilometers south of Paris, are making waves and attracting international attention.
As Australian contributions continue to enrich Parisian life, the blending of cultures promises a vibrant and evolving scene in the French capital.