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Café Revolution: Young Vietnamese Defy Tradition in Pursuit of Coffee Passion

by Jessica

HANOI — From Finance to Frappes: Young Vietnamese Entrepreneurs Brew New Futures

In a bold move that defied traditional expectations, Vu Dinh Tu left behind a promising career in finance to pursue his passion for coffee, quietly launching a café without his parents’ knowledge. His venture is part of a broader trend among young Vietnamese entrepreneurs who are reshaping the perception of work through the lens of creativity and self-expression.

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Historically, Vietnamese coffee is enjoyed black or with condensed milk, and sometimes even egg. However, many middle-class parents in Vietnam prefer their children to pursue stable professions in fields like medicine and law rather than opening cafés.

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“At first, my family didn’t know much about it,” Tu, 32, recounted in an interview with AFP. “Gradually they found out—and they weren’t very supportive.” Despite his parents’ repeated efforts to persuade him to remain in his lucrative investment banking position, Tu persisted, ultimately establishing four branches of Refined in Hanoi over four years. Each café attracts a steady stream of patrons drawn to the ambiance, which resembles a cocktail bar more than a traditional café, serving robusta coffee beans from Vietnam.

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“My parents began to see the hard work involved in running a business—everything from finances to staffing—and they didn’t want me to struggle,” Tu explained.

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Vietnam’s economic transformation began in the early 2000s, moving from widespread poverty to a booming manufacturing sector. This shift has led many parents to hope their children will ascend the social ladder through conventional career paths. In contrast, the coffee culture has become synonymous with creativity and personal fulfillment.

According to Sarah Grant, an associate professor at California State University, coffee shops have emerged as spaces that challenge societal norms regarding career paths. “They have also become spaces of possibility where you can bring together creative people in a community,” Grant noted, highlighting the significance of cafés in fostering a new generation of artists and entrepreneurs.

Coffee was introduced to Vietnam during the French colonial period in the 1850s, but the 1990s and early 2000s marked a shift towards large-scale robusta production, establishing the country as a leading coffee exporter globally. This legacy plays a significant role in the identity of coffee entrepreneurs, who take pride in Vietnam’s growing influence in the global market.

In a quaint alley in Hanoi, 29-year-old Nguyen Thi Hue is crafting a lychee matcha cold brew at her own “Slow Bar” café. “When making coffee, it’s almost like being an artist,” said Hue, who first tasted coffee as a child thanks to a neighbor who roasted beans.

Hue also noted that the coffee scene has become a cultural phenomenon, particularly among Generation Z, who prioritize aesthetic experiences over traditional coffee appreciation. “No one dresses poorly to go to a café,” she remarked, showcasing her own stylish attire.

The Vietnamese coffee shop industry is flourishing, valued at approximately $400 million and growing at an annual rate of up to eight percent, according to branding consultancy Mibrand. Many unregistered shops also operate informally, according to Vu Thi Kim Oanh, a lecturer at RMIT University in Vietnam. “If we encounter issues at the office, we think: let’s pool our resources… rent a space and open a coffee shop,” she explained. “If it goes well, we continue; if not, we pivot.”

Global brands have found it challenging to establish a presence in Vietnam’s coffee market, with Starbucks capturing just two percent of the market share in 2022. Earlier this year, the company announced the closure of its only specialty store in Ho Chi Minh City, highlighting the contrasting preferences for robusta over the high-quality arabica beans favored by global chains.

Despite initial skepticism, Tu’s parents have come to accept his career choice. He is now planning to expand his coffee business further, driven by a desire to cultivate a workforce that shares his passion for coffee. “I want to build the mindset that this is a serious career,” he said, marking a significant shift in family expectations and the broader cultural landscape in Vietnam.

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